By aussiematesvietnam Stepping Back in Time: Heritage House (87 Ma May) in Hanoi’s Old Quarter
G’day, fellow wanderers! Aussie Mates here, coming to you from the chaotic yet charming streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter. After calling Vietnam home for nearly two decades, Tracy and I reckon we’ve explored just about every nook and cranny this fascinating city has to offer. But there’s one place that keeps drawing us back like a moth to a flame – the Heritage House at 87 Ma May Street.
This little gem offers a fair dinkum glimpse into old Hanoi, showcasing how merchant families lived during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. For Aussie visitors wanting to escape the hustle and bustle of motorbikes and street vendors for a moment, this preserved shophouse is just the ticket.
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The History of 87 Ma May
Built in the late 1800s, this traditional tube house (called “nhà ống” in Vietnamese) is a classic example of Old Quarter architecture. These homes were designed long and narrow – often only 2-3 meters wide but stretching back 60 meters or more – due to taxes being calculated on street frontage width. Clever buggers, those old Vietnamese merchants!
The house at 87 Ma May belonged to a wealthy Vietnamese merchant family who both lived and conducted business here. During my first visit with Tracy back in the early 2000s, our guide explained that Ma May Street was historically home to merchants selling items made from rattan and bamboo. The street’s name itself comes from two ancient guild names: “Ma” (ghost) for a type of rattan product and “May” for bamboo.
The building underwent a careful restoration in 1999 as part of a joint Vietnamese-French preservation project, aimed at saving this rare example of traditional architecture. She’s one of the few remaining original tube houses in the Old Quarter, making her a true blue historical treasure.
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Architectural Features That’ll Blow Your Mind
What makes this place special? Let me tell you, cobber, it’s all in the details. The house consists of two main sections separated by a small courtyard – a common feature in traditional Vietnamese homes that provides natural light and ventilation. No air con back then, just clever design!
The front section facing the street once served as a shop where the family conducted their business. Behind this sits the living quarters and ancestral altar room. The back section houses more private family spaces including bedrooms and the kitchen.
Walking through with Tracy last month, I was struck again by the beautiful wooden columns and beams, all hand-carved with intricate details. The furniture exemplifies traditional Vietnamese craftsmanship – heavy wooden pieces inlaid with mother-of-pearl that have survived more than a century.
But my favorite feature has got to be the mezzanine levels, reached by steep wooden ladders. These served as storage spaces and sleeping areas. Fair warning to my fellow boomers with dodgy knees – those ladders are not for the faint-hearted! Tracy still gives me a good ribbing about the time I got myself stuck halfway up one of them.
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Daily Life in Old Hanoi
What I love most about Heritage House is how it brings everyday life in old Hanoi to life. The house is filled with period furniture, household items, and explanatory displays that help you imagine the daily routine of a trading family.
The kitchen area at the back is a ripper, complete with traditional cooking implements. You’ll spot clay stoves, ceramic storage jars, and various utensils that show how meals were prepared before the days of microwaves and air fryers.
There’s also a display showing traditional occupations of the Old Quarter, with each of the 36 streets originally named after the goods that were made or sold there. It’s fascinating to see how this tradition continues today, with many streets still specializing in particular products.
On our last visit, Tracy was particularly taken with the ancestral altar in the main living area. These altars remain an important feature in Vietnamese homes today, showing how ancestor worship continues to be a crucial part of the culture. If you’re lucky enough to visit during a traditional holiday like Tet (Vietnamese New Year), you might see the altar decorated with offerings of fruit, flowers, and incense.
[IMAGE:traditional-altar]
Practical Tips for Your Visit
If you’re planning to check out this beauty during your Hanoi adventure, here are a few insider tips from someone who’s been there more times than I can count:
- The house is open daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM.
- Entrance fee is modest at around 10,000 VND (less than a dollar) – an absolute bargain!
- It’s small, so you’ll only need about 30-45 minutes to explore.
- Best visited in the morning when it’s cooler and less crowded.
- Combine it with a general wander around the Old Quarter’s narrow lanes.
- Wear comfortable shoes as the floors are uneven in places.
- There’s a small shop selling souvenirs and local handicrafts on the premises.
One thing to keep in mind – unlike many tourist attractions that have been jazzed up and modernized, Heritage House keeps it real. It can get a bit hot and stuffy inside during summer months. Tracy always brings a paper fan when we visit between May and August, and that’s a top tip I’d pass on to you too.
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The Surrounding Old Quarter
After you’ve finished exploring the Heritage House, do yourself a favor and spend some time wandering the surrounding Old Quarter. Ma May Street itself is a bustling thoroughfare with plenty of cafes, restaurants, and shops.
Just a short stroll away is Ta Hien Street (nicknamed “Beer Street”), where you can park yourself on a tiny plastic stool and enjoy a cold Bia Hoi (fresh beer) for about 50 cents. Tracy and I often end our Old Quarter excursions here, watching the world go by while sipping on Vietnam’s cheapest and freshest brew.
The nearby Dong Xuan Market is also worth a gander if you’re after souvenirs or just want to experience a traditional Vietnamese market. Just be prepared for the sensory overload – it’s a full-on experience!
Preserving the Past for Future Generations
What makes the Heritage House at 87 Ma May truly special is its role in preserving Vietnam’s architectural and cultural heritage. In a city that’s developing at breakneck speed, historical sites like this provide a crucial link to the past.
The Old Quarter is changing rapidly, with many ancient buildings being demolished to make way for hotels and commercial developments. Each time Tracy and I visit, we notice something new has replaced something old. That’s what makes preserved sites like Heritage House so bloody important – they’re becoming increasingly rare.
By visiting and supporting these preservation efforts, we tourists play a small part in ensuring these treasures survive for future generations to enjoy and learn from.
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Final Thoughts
Heritage House at 87 Ma May might not be as famous as Hanoi’s Temple of Literature or Hoan Kiem Lake, but for my money, it offers something more authentic and intimate – a genuine peek into old Hanoi’s soul.
After nearly 20 years of living in Vietnam, Tracy and I have brought countless visiting mates from back home to this special place. Without fail, they’ve all been fascinated by this time capsule in the heart of the chaotic Old Quarter.
So when you’re planning your Hanoi itinerary, don’t just stick to the big-ticket attractions that everyone and their dog visits. Make time for this little beauty – it’s a ripper of an experience that’ll give you a deeper understanding of Vietnam’s rich cultural heritage.
Until next time, happy travels!
– Aussie Mates