By aussiematesvietnam Bat Trang Ceramic Village: A Treasure Trove of Vietnamese Heritage
G’day, fellow wanderers! Aussie Mates here, coming to you from my adopted home of Vietnam where I’ve been living with my lovely wife Tracy for nearly two decades now. If there’s one thing we’ve learned in our time here, it’s that Vietnam is chock-full of hidden gems that’ll knock your socks off. Today, I want to yarn about one of our favourite day trips from Hanoi – the historic Bat Trang Ceramic Village.
Just a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi (about 13km southeast), this 700-year-old village is the beating heart of traditional Vietnamese pottery. Tracy and I first stumbled upon it during our second year in Vietnam, and crikey, we’ve been coming back ever since!
[IMAGE:bat-trang-village-entrance]
The Rich History of Bat Trang
Bat Trang isn’t just any old pottery village – it’s a living, breathing piece of Vietnamese history dating back to the 14th century. The village sits alongside the mighty Red River, which conveniently provided both the transportation for finished goods and the perfect clay for crafting ceramics.
Legend has it that potters from China settled here during the Ly Dynasty, bringing their techniques and traditions with them. Over the centuries, these methods blended with local Vietnamese artistry to create something uniquely Bat Trang. The village flourished during the 15th and 16th centuries when Vietnamese ceramics were exported throughout Southeast Asia.
Tracy, who’s developed quite the eye for ceramics over the years, always points out how Bat Trang’s distinctive style evolved – a beautiful marriage of Chinese, Japanese, and distinctly Vietnamese influences. You can spot a genuine Bat Trang piece by its characteristic white glaze with blue patterns, though these days they produce all sorts of colours and designs.
[IMAGE:traditional-blue-white-ceramics]
Wandering Through the Pottery Wonderland
When you first arrive in Bat Trang, it’s like stepping into a different world. Narrow lanes are lined with shop after shop of stunning ceramics – everything from everyday household items to elaborate art pieces that would look right at home in a fancy gallery.
On our most recent visit, Tracy and I spent a good three hours just meandering through the village. The main market area is a sensory overload in the best possible way – the clinking of ceramics, the chatter of artisans and customers haggling over prices, and the occasional whirr of a potter’s wheel from a nearby workshop.
Here’s a tip from a long-time expat: don’t rush. The magic of Bat Trang is in the unhurried exploration. Duck into the smaller family workshops away from the main drag – that’s where you’ll find the true craftspeople who’ve been perfecting their art for generations.
We befriended an elderly potter named Mr. Hung who’s been turning clay into masterpieces for over 60 years. His gnarled hands can transform a lump of river clay into an elegant vase faster than you can say “fair dinkum.” Watching these masters at work is worth the trip alone.
[IMAGE:potter-at-wheel]
Get Your Hands Dirty: Pottery Workshops
For all you hands-on types (and I know you fellow Aussie boomers love a good DIY project), Bat Trang offers an experience you shouldn’t miss – making your own pottery! Several workshops throughout the village let visitors try their hand at the potter’s wheel.
Tracy and I had a crack at it during our third visit, and let me tell you, it’s harder than it looks! My attempt at a teacup ended up looking more like a wonky ashtray, while Tracy (always the more artistic one) managed to craft a respectable small bowl that we still use for nuts when guests come round.
Most workshops charge between 100,000-150,000 VND (about $6-9 AUD) for the experience, including the clay and firing of your masterpiece. You can even have it glazed and shipped back home if you’re not sticking around long enough for the firing process.
The young artisans who guide you through the process speak enough English to help you along, and their patience is nothing short of saintly – especially when dealing with uncoordinated tourists like yours truly!
[IMAGE:tourist-pottery-workshop]
What to Buy (Without Breaking the Bank or Your Luggage)
If you’re anything like us, you’ll want to take half the village home with you. But before you go wild, remember that you’ve got to get these fragile treasures back to Australia somehow!
Over the years, Tracy and I have become more strategic about our Bat Trang purchases. Small items like tea sets, rice bowls, and vases are practical souvenirs that won’t send your luggage weight into the stratosphere. Many shops can arrange shipping for larger items, though it’s not exactly cheap.
Price-wise, expect to pay anywhere from 50,000 VND ($3 AUD) for simple items to several million dong for elaborate art pieces. The quality varies enormously, so inspect items carefully before purchasing. Look for pieces with even glazing, no cracks, and a pleasant “ping” sound when gently tapped.
Haggling is expected, but remember that these are artisans making a living. Tracy has a good rule of thumb – aim for about 20-30% off the initial price, and everyone walks away happy. The vendors appreciate a fair negotiation conducted with a smile rather than aggressive bargaining.
- Tea sets (perfect for gifts)
- Rice bowls and chopstick rests
- Small decorative vases
- Incense holders
- Wall plates and decorative tiles
[IMAGE:ceramic-tea-set]
Fuelling Your Pottery Adventure
All that shopping works up an appetite! While Bat Trang isn’t known as a culinary destination, there are several decent local eateries where you can refuel. Tracy and I usually stop at one of the small family-run places near the central market for a bowl of bún chả (grilled pork with rice noodles) or phở.
For a more unique experience, look for the local speciality called “gà tần thuốc bắc” – chicken slow-cooked with traditional Chinese medicinal herbs. It’s a ripper of a dish that’ll sort you right out after a morning of pottery hunting.
Don’t forget to stay hydrated, especially if you’re visiting during Vietnam’s sweltering summer months. The small cafes dotted around the village offer everything from Vietnamese coffee to fresh coconut water.
Getting There and Getting Around
From Hanoi, you’ve got several options to reach Bat Trang:
- Grab or taxi: The most convenient but priciest option, expect to pay around 200,000-250,000 VND ($12-15 AUD) each way.
- Bus #47: The budget option at just 7,000 VND (less than 50 cents!). Catch it from Long Bien bus station.
- Motorbike: If you’re game enough to brave Hanoi traffic, this gives you the most flexibility.
Tracy and I usually opt for a Grab car these days (we’re not as young as we used to be!), but in our more adventurous years, we’d zip out on a rented motorbike.
Once in the village, everything is walkable, though the narrow lanes can get crowded, especially on weekends. For those with mobility issues, most of the main shopping areas are accessible, but some of the smaller workshops might have uneven ground or steps.
[IMAGE:village-street-view]
When to Visit
Bat Trang welcomes visitors year-round, but if you can swing it,