By aussiematesvietnam Co Loa Citadel: Exploring Vietnam’s Ancient Spiral Fortress
G’day fellow adventurers! Aussie Mates here, coming at you from the outskirts of Hanoi where Tracy and I recently spent a cracking day exploring one of Vietnam’s most significant historical sites. After nearly two decades of calling Vietnam home, we’re still discovering hidden gems, and Co Loa Citadel is definitely one worth sharing with you lot.
This ancient spiral-shaped fortress isn’t on most tourists’ radars, which makes it all the more special. Just 16km northeast of Hanoi’s hustle and bustle, Co Loa stands as a testament to Vietnam’s earliest days of nationhood – dating back to the 3rd century BCE! For history buffs and curious travelers alike, this place offers a fascinating glimpse into Vietnam’s ancient past without the crowds you’ll find at better-known spots.
[IMAGE:co-loa-aerial-view]
The Historical Significance of Co Loa
Co Loa isn’t just any old ruin – it’s considered Vietnam’s first fortified city and served as the capital of the Au Lac Kingdom under the legendary King An Duong Vuong. The name “Co Loa” literally means “old spiral,” referring to its unique spiral-shaped design that consisted of three rings of defensive walls.
When Tracy and I first arrived, our guide explained that this spiral layout wasn’t just for show – it was a bloody clever defensive strategy! Enemies attempting to penetrate the citadel would become disoriented navigating the concentric rings. Pretty advanced thinking for 257 BCE, I reckon!
Archaeological evidence suggests the original fortress walls stretched about 8km in total length, with the outer wall measuring a whopping 4.5km in circumference. While time has eroded much of the original structure, the remnants still give you a sense of just how massive and sophisticated this complex once was.
[IMAGE:co-loa-walls]
The Fascinating Legend of Co Loa
No ancient Vietnamese site would be complete without a ripper of a legend, and Co Loa delivers in spades. The story goes that King An Duong Vuong built the citadel with the help of a magical golden turtle. Every day, humans would build the walls, but they’d mysteriously collapse overnight.
As the king was about to chuck in the towel, the golden turtle spirit appeared and offered a solution: the citadel could only be completed if a human sacrifice was made. The king’s general ended up sacrificing his own daughter (bit harsh, mate), and afterward, the construction proceeded without a hitch.
The turtle spirit then gifted the king with one of its claws, which was fashioned into a magical crossbow capable of killing thousands of enemies with a single shot. This crossbow supposedly helped the king defend his kingdom until he was betrayed by – wait for it – his own daughter’s ghost who had married the enemy’s son. You couldn’t make this stuff up!
Tracy loves these legends. She reckons they add a layer of mystique to what would otherwise be “just another pile of old bricks.” Can’t argue with that!
[IMAGE:co-loa-temple]
What You Can See Today
Now, I won’t sugar-coat it – if you’re expecting Angkor Wat levels of preservation, you might be a tad disappointed. Time hasn’t been overly kind to Co Loa. But for those with a bit of imagination and appreciation for historical significance, there’s still plenty to discover:
- The Ramparts – Sections of the original earthen walls are still visible, giving you a sense of the citadel’s original layout.
- An Duong Vuong Temple – A beautiful temple dedicated to the king who built Co Loa. It’s been rebuilt and maintained over the centuries.
- Co Loa Communal House – Where locals still worship the village deity.
- Archaeological Museum – Houses artifacts excavated from the site, including ancient weapons, pottery, and tools.
When Tracy and I visited last month, we were chuffed to find that excavation work is ongoing. Archaeologists continue to unearth artifacts that help piece together life in ancient Vietnam. We spent a good hour chatting with one of the local guides who shared some fascinating insights about recent discoveries.
[IMAGE:co-loa-artifacts]
Tips for Visiting Co Loa Citadel
After nearly two decades exploring Vietnam, I’ve learned a thing or two about getting the most out of historical sites like Co Loa. Here are my top tips:
- Timing is everything – Visit on weekdays if possible. Weekends can get busy with local tourists, especially during religious festivals.
- Hire a guide – The site doesn’t have a lot of English information panels, so a guide makes all the difference. Our bloke, Mr. Thanh, was knowledgeable and spoke ripper English.
- Wear proper shoes – You’ll be doing a fair bit of walking on uneven ground.
- Bring water and snacks – Food options are limited nearby.
- Allow 2-3 hours – To properly explore the site without rushing.
Getting there is straightforward enough – we hired a driver for the day (about 700,000 VND or $40 AUD), but you could also grab a Grab car for a bit less. Public buses are an option too if you’re feeling adventurous and have more time up your sleeve.
The Cultural Significance Today
What struck me most about Co Loa wasn’t just its historical importance but how it continues to be a living cultural site. During our visit, we observed locals making offerings at the temple, showing that this ancient place still holds spiritual significance for many Vietnamese.
Tracy and I had a yarn with an elderly local who explained that the An Duong Vuong Temple festival occurs annually during the first lunar month. If you’re lucky enough to visit during this time, you’ll witness traditional ceremonies, folk games, and performances that have been passed down through generations.
For many Vietnamese, Co Loa represents the birth of their nation and serves as a powerful symbol of resistance against foreign invaders throughout history. Understanding this context adds another layer to your appreciation of the site.
[IMAGE:co-loa-festival]
Is It Worth Visiting?
Fair question, that. With so many spectacular sights in and around Hanoi, is Co Loa worth your precious holiday time?
If you’re the type who enjoys getting off the beaten track and exploring the historical foundations of the countries you visit, then I’d say it’s a definite yes. Co Loa offers a deeper insight into Vietnam’s ancient history than many of the more polished tourist attractions.
Tracy summed it up nicely: “It’s not about what you can see, but what you can feel – standing on the same ground where Vietnam’s earliest kingdom made its stand over 2,200 years ago.”
For history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, or those simply seeking to understand Vietnam beyond the usual tourist narrative, Co Loa offers a fascinating half-day excursion from Hanoi. Combine it with a visit to nearby Dong Ho village (famous for its traditional woodblock prints) for a perfect day out exploring Vietnam’s cultural heritage.
Final Thoughts
As we wrapped up our visit to Co Loa, watching the afternoon sun cast long shadows across the ancient ramparts, I couldn’t help but reflect on how sites like this add depth to our understanding of Vietnam. Beyond the beautiful beaches, delicious food, and stunning landscapes lies a rich historical tapestry that continues to influence modern Vietnamese identity.
Tracy and I have made it our mission to seek out these less-visited historical gems during our time in Vietnam, and we’re excited to share more of them with you. There’s something special about connecting with a country