By aussiematesvietnam 
G’day from Hanoi’s Urban Oasis
There’s something magical about that first moment when you stumble upon Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi. Tracy and I discovered it during our first week in Vietnam nearly two decades ago, and even now, after all these years living in this chaotic yet captivating country, we still find ourselves drawn to its tranquil shores.
If you’re planning a trip to Vietnam’s capital city, this emerald jewel in Hanoi’s crown simply can’t be missed. Known to locals as the “Lake of the Restored Sword,” Hoan Kiem offers a peaceful respite from the frenetic energy that defines much of Hanoi’s Old Quarter. It’s where history, mythology, and everyday Vietnamese life blend together in a harmonious display that captivates visitors and locals alike.
[IMAGE:hoan-kiem-lake-panorama]
So grab yourself a cold beer or Vietnamese coffee, and let me, Aussie Mates, walk you through everything you need to know about one of Vietnam’s most iconic landmarks.
The Legend Behind the Lake
Like any proper tourist attraction in Vietnam, Hoan Kiem Lake comes with its own captivating origin story. According to Vietnamese legend, Emperor Le Loi was given a magical sword by the Golden Turtle God (Kim Qui) to drive the Chinese from Vietnam in the 15th century. After achieving victory, Le Loi was boating on the lake when a giant turtle surfaced, took the sword from his belt, and disappeared into the depths – thus returning the sword to its divine owner and giving the lake its name: “Lake of the Restored Sword.”
Tracy loves telling this story to our visiting mates from back home, usually while we’re enjoying a cold one at one of the lakeside cafes. There’s something about sipping a Bia Hanoi while gazing at the lake that makes ancient legends feel strangely plausible!
Ngoc Son Temple – The Jewel in the Crown
Sitting pretty on a small island in the northern part of the lake is Ngoc Son Temple (Temple of the Jade Mountain). Connected to the shore by the striking red Huc Bridge (Morning Sunlight Bridge), this 18th-century temple is dedicated to war heroes, scholarly success, and curiously enough, that famous giant turtle.
[IMAGE:ngoc-son-temple]
A couple of tips from a long-time expat: Visit early in the morning to avoid the crowds, and don’t rush through. Take your time to observe the locals burning incense and paying respects. The entrance fee is nominal – about 30,000 VND (roughly $2 AUD) – and well worth it for the cultural insights and cracking photos you’ll get.
The temple houses a preserved specimen of a giant softshell turtle found in the lake in 1968, weighing a whopping 250kg! When Tracy first saw it, she was gobsmacked – “Strewth, that’s not a turtle, that’s a dinosaur!” became one of our long-running family jokes.
The Turtle Tower (Thap Rua)
Standing proudly on a small island in the center of the lake is the Turtle Tower, perhaps the most iconic image associated with Hoan Kiem. Built in 1886 on the spot where the legendary turtle is said to have taken back the magic sword, this Gothic-style tower has become a symbol of Hanoi itself.
While you can’t visit the tower (it’s isolated on its own little island), it makes for a ripper photo opportunity, especially at sunset when the golden light casts a magical glow over the structure. I’ve probably taken hundreds of photos of it over the years, and it never gets old.
[IMAGE:turtle-tower-sunset]
Morning Rituals at Hoan Kiem
If you want to experience Hoan Kiem Lake like a local, set your alarm for 5 AM (I know, not exactly holiday hours, but trust me on this one). In the pre-dawn light, the lake transforms into Hanoi’s largest outdoor gym. Elderly Vietnamese practice tai chi in synchronized groups, middle-aged women perform aerobic dances to tinny portable speakers, and joggers circle the 1.5km pathway around the lake.
Tracy and I often join the morning walkers when the humidity isn’t too brutal. There’s something profoundly connective about joining this daily ritual that’s been happening for generations. Plus, the early morning mist hanging over the lake makes for a mystical atmosphere that you just don’t get later in the day.
Weekend Pedestrian Paradise
Since 2016, the roads surrounding Hoan Kiem Lake transform into a pedestrian-only zone from Friday evening through Sunday night. This weekend walking street has quickly become a favorite for both tourists and locals alike.
When our mates visit from Australia, we always make sure to bring them here on a weekend. The area comes alive with street performances, traditional games, food vendors, and impromptu dance parties. It’s a beauty of a cultural experience and a window into contemporary Vietnamese life that goes beyond the typical tourist trail.
[IMAGE:weekend-walking-street]
Fair dinkum, it’s one of the best free shows in town. Watching Vietnamese grandmas dancing alongside backpackers from all over the world, while kids zoom around on rollerblades and couples stroll hand-in-hand – it’s Hanoi at its most charming.
Coffee Culture with a View
Vietnam’s coffee culture is legendary, and there’s no better place to experience it than at one of the cafes overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake. The surrounding streets are lined with coffee shops ranging from traditional Vietnamese establishments to modern hipster joints.
My personal recommendation is to grab a ca phe sua da (iced coffee with condensed milk) from one of the lakeside vendors and park yourself on one of the green benches that line the shore. For around 20,000 VND (about $1.25 AUD), you’ll get a proper Vietnamese caffeine hit and a million-dollar view. Not a bad deal in my book!
Getting Your Bearings
For first-timers to Hanoi, Hoan Kiem Lake serves as the perfect reference point. The Old Quarter lies to the north, the French Quarter to the south, and most attractions are within walking distance. We always tell our visiting friends to book accommodation near the lake – it might be a tad pricier, but the convenience and atmosphere are worth every dong.
[IMAGE:hanoi-old-quarter-map]
Final Thoughts from an Old Hand
After nearly 20 years of living in Vietnam, Tracy and I still find ourselves drawn to Hoan Kiem Lake whenever we’re in Hanoi. It’s a living, breathing part of the city that changes throughout the day yet somehow remains timeless.
Whether you’re visiting Vietnam for a quick holiday or an extended journey, take my advice and schedule some unstructured time just to be present at the lake. Sit on a bench, observe the rhythm of life unfolding around you, and let Hanoi reveal itself at its own pace.
As we like to say, sometimes the best travel experiences aren’t about ticking attractions off a list but simply about being in a place fully. And Hoan Kiem Lake offers one of the most rewarding places in all of Vietnam to do just that.
Until next time, safe travels and hooroo from Aussie Mates and Tracy!