By aussiematesvietnam Explore the Sacred Ruins of My Son Sanctuary Near Da Nang
G’day fellow adventurers! Aussie Mates here, coming at you from our adopted home in Vietnam. After nearly two decades of calling this beautiful country home, Tracy and I reckon we’ve got a fair dinkum understanding of the must-see spots that’ll knock your socks off. Today, I’m sharing one of Central Vietnam’s true gems that many tourists zip right past—the ancient My Son Sanctuary.
Located a leisurely drive from Da Nang, this collection of Hindu temple ruins nestled in a jungle valley isn’t just another stop on the tourist trail. It’s a proper journey back in time, mates—a glimpse into the sophisticated Champa civilization that once dominated these parts long before Vietnam as we know it existed.
Having guided dozens of our visiting Aussie friends to this UNESCO World Heritage site over the years, I’ve picked up a trick or two about making the most of your visit. So grab a cold one, settle in, and let me walk you through everything you need to know about exploring My Son Sanctuary.
[IMAGE:my-son-sanctuary-overview]
A Brief History of My Son Sanctuary
Before we dive into the practical stuff, let’s get our bearings with a bit of history. My Son (pronounced “mee sun”) served as the religious and political capital of the Champa Kingdom from the 4th to the 13th century. The name translates to “Beautiful Mountain” in Vietnamese, and strewth, it lives up to that moniker!
The Cham people built these Hindu temples primarily to honor the god Shiva, who they called Bhadresvara. What makes this place special is that unlike many ancient sites that were built in one go, My Son evolved over nearly nine centuries, with new temples and towers added by successive Champa kings.
Sadly, the site copped a fair walloping during the Vietnam War (or the American War, as it’s known locally). B-52 bombers targeted the area because Viet Cong troops were using it as a base. Despite this, about 20 structures remain standing—a testament to the skill of those ancient builders.
Tracy always says the history here reminds her a bit of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but on a more intimate scale. There’s something special about exploring ruins that aren’t overrun with tourists jostling for the perfect selfie.
[IMAGE:ancient-cham-tower]
Getting to My Son from Da Nang
You’ve got a few options for reaching My Son, depending on how adventurous you’re feeling:
- Organized Tour: The easiest option, especially for first-timers. Most Da Nang hotels can book this for you at around 700,000-900,000 VND (roughly $40-55 AUD) per person. These typically include hotel pickup, transport, entrance fees, and an English-speaking guide.
- Private Car: For more flexibility, hire a private car with driver for about 1,000,000-1,200,000 VND ($60-75 AUD). This way, you’re not rushed and can explore at your own pace. Tracy and I prefer this option when showing mates around.
- Motorbike: For the adventurous souls! Rent a scooter in Da Nang for about 150,000 VND ($9 AUD) and make the 40km journey yourself. The roads are decent, but pack your GPS and a good dose of patience.
Word to the wise: if you’re driving yourself, aim to leave Da Nang by 7:30 AM to beat both the heat and crowds. The journey takes about 1.5 hours, winding through some gorgeous countryside dotted with rice paddies and small villages.
[IMAGE:road-to-my-son]
When to Visit: Timing Is Everything
After nearly 20 years of exploring Vietnam, I’ve learned a thing or two about timing, and My Son is no exception:
Time of Year: February to April offers the best weather—dry and not too stinking hot. Avoid the rainy season (October to December) when downpours can turn paths into mud slides faster than you can say “crikey!”
Time of Day: Early morning (7:30-9:00 AM) is prime time. You’ll avoid both the midday heat and the tour buses that typically arrive around 9:30. Trust me, exploring ancient ruins in Vietnam’s midday sun is about as pleasant as a sunburn on Bondi.
Last year, Tracy and I took some mates from Perth in the early morning, and we practically had the place to ourselves for the first hour. By the time we were leaving around 10:30, the car park was chockers with tour buses. Early bird gets the worm here, folks!
Practical Tips for Your Visit
Here’s the nitty-gritty to make your My Son adventure a ripper:
- Entrance Fee: 150,000 VND (about $9 AUD) per person. Keep your ticket handy as they might check it within the complex.
- Opening Hours: 6:30 AM to 5:00 PM daily.
- Dress Code: No strict requirements like some temples, but modest clothing is always respectful. Wear comfy walking shoes as you’ll be covering uneven terrain.
- Sun Protection: Hat, sunnies, and sunscreen are non-negotiable. The Vietnamese sun doesn’t mess about!
- Hydration: Bring plenty of water. There’s a small shop near the entrance, but prices are typically jacked up.
- Time Needed: Allow 2-3 hours to explore properly without rushing.
A little insider tip from yours truly: pack a small torch (flashlight for you Americans). Some of the temple interiors are quite dark, and it’s handy for spotting the intricate carvings that might otherwise go unnoticed.
[IMAGE:temple-interior-carvings]
Exploring the Site: A Walking Tour
Here’s how your visit will likely unfold. From the main entrance, you’ll board a small electric buggy that shuttles visitors about 2km to the actual site (included in your ticket). If you’re feeling energetic, you can walk this stretch through lush jungle—quite pleasant in the morning.
Once you reach the site proper, you’ll find the ruins organized into several groups labeled A through L. Not all are open to visitors, as some remain too damaged or are undergoing restoration.
The main clusters worth your attention are:
- Group B, C, and D: The largest and most impressive, featuring the iconic brick towers with intricate stone carvings.
- Group A: Though heavily damaged during the war, it contains some of the oldest structures.
- Group G and E: Less visited but offer some unique architectural elements.
Tracy’s favorite spot is in Group B where there’s a particularly well-preserved carving of a dancing Apsara (celestial nymph). Every time we visit, she spends ages photographing it from different angles. Women and their photos, eh?
Unlike some ancient sites with strict pathways, My Son allows relatively free exploration, though some areas may be roped off for conservation. Take your time wandering between the groups—the jungle setting with mountains in the background makes for some spectacular photos.
[IMAGE:my-son-temple-jungle]
Understanding What You’re Seeing
The architecture at My Son follows traditional Hindu principles but with unique Cham adaptations. Here’s what to look for:
Kalan (Main Sanctuary): These are the tower-like structures, representing Mount Meru (the sacred mountain in Hindu cosmology). Each typically contained a linga, the phallic symbol of Shiva.
Mandapa: The entrance hall leading to the main sanctuary.
Brick Construction: One of the most fascinating aspects is how these structures were built. The Cham used a brick-making technique so advanced that historians still debate exactly how they created such durable structures without mortar. Some bricks fit together so perfectly you can’t slide a credit card between them—and this was over a thousand years ago!
If you’re visiting without a guide, consider downloading an audio guide app beforehand. When I first visited in the early 2000s, information was sparse, but these days there are several good English audio guides available that really enhance the experience.
The Cultural Performance: Worth Your Time
Every day at 9:45 AM, there’s a 20-minute traditional Cham dance performance at the small theater near the site entrance. Many visitors skip this, thinking it’s just tourist fluff, but Tracy and I reckon it’s actually worth catching.
The performances showcase traditional Cham music and dance that have nearly disappeared from modern Vietnam. It’s not the most polished show you’ll ever see, but there’s something genuinely moving about watching these cultural traditions performed against the backdrop of ancient temples built by the performers’ ancestors.
After nearly two decades in Vietnam, I’ve developed a deep appreciation for how the country preserves its diverse cultural heritage, and this little show is part of that effort.
[IMAGE:cham-cultural-dance]
Nearby Attractions to Combine with My Son
Since My Son will take up just half your day, consider combining it with:
- Tra Que Vegetable Village: About 40 minutes from My Son, this organic farming community offers cooking classes and farm tours. Tracy and I love stopping here for lunch after a morning at My Son.
- Marble Mountains: On your way back to Da Nang, these natural limestone hills contain stunning caves, tunnels, and Buddhist sanctuaries.
- Hoi An Ancient Town: If you haven’t already planned a separate visit, Hoi An is just 30 minutes from My Son and makes for a perfect afternoon stop.
When friends visit us, we often organize a full day that starts with sunrise at My Son, followed by lunch in Tra Que, and ends with sunset in Hoi An—a perfect Central Vietnam trifecta!
Is My Son Worth Visiting?
I’ve taken dozens of visiting Aussies to My Son over the years, and the question I often get beforehand is: “Is it really worth it if we’ve seen Angkor Wat?”
Fair question, and here’s my honest take: My Son is smaller and less grandiose than Angkor, no argument there. But it offers something different—a more intimate experience of ancient history without the overwhelming crowds. Plus, its jungle setting against mountain backdrops creates a magical atmosphere that’s hard to describe.
As Tracy always tells our guests, “Angkor is where you go to be amazed by scale; My Son is where you go to feel connected to the past.”
For us Aussies who typically have a longer journey to Vietnam than European or Asian tourists, I reckon it’s worth seeing every significant historical site you can. My Son represents a crucial chapter in Vietnam’s diverse cultural history—one that many visitors miss while focusing only on Vietnam War sites or beaches.
[IMAGE:my-son-sunset]
Final Thoughts: Respecting the Past
Before wrapping up, a gentle reminder about responsible tourism. My Son isn’t just an archaeological site—it’s a sacred place that held deep religious significance for centuries. While exploring:
- Avoid climbing on structures (tempting as it may be for that perfect Instagram shot)
- Don’t remove anything, not even a small stone