By aussiematesvietnam 
A Sobering Journey Through Vietnam’s War History
G’day, fellow travellers! Aussie Mates here. After calling Vietnam home for nearly two decades, Tracy and I have explored just about every nook and cranny of this fascinating country. But nothing quite captures the soul of Vietnam like its war memorials and museums. These aren’t your typical tourist spots – they’re powerful reminders of a turbulent past that shaped this resilient nation.
For us Aussies of a certain vintage, the Vietnam War (or the American War, as it’s known here) holds particular significance. Many of our parents, uncles, or even ourselves remember those tense years when Australia joined the conflict. Today, I want to share some of the most impactful war sites that Tracy and I have visited countless times – both on our own and when showing our mates from back home around.
[IMAGE:vietnamese-soldier-memorial]
The War Remnants Museum: Confronting Reality
If there’s one war-related site you visit in Vietnam, make it the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City. Fair warning though, cobber – it’s not for the faint-hearted. The first time Tracy and I walked through these doors back in 2004, we were utterly gobsmacked by the confronting nature of the exhibitions.
The museum pulls no punches in depicting the horrors of war, particularly the effects of chemical warfare like Agent Orange. The photography exhibitions are powerful – Pulitzer Prize-winning images that capture the raw emotion of the conflict. Outside, you’ll find an impressive collection of US military equipment, including tanks, planes, and the infamous “tiger cages” used to detain prisoners.
What makes this place special is how it’s evolved over the years. When we first visited, the tone was decidedly anti-American. Today, while still showing the brutal reality of war, it presents a more balanced view that acknowledges the complex nature of the conflict. It costs around 40,000 VND (about $2.50 AUD) to enter – a small price for such a profound experience.
[IMAGE:war-remnants-museum]
Cu Chi Tunnels: Underground Warfare
About 70km northwest of Ho Chi Minh City lies one of Vietnam’s most ingenious war remnants – the Cu Chi Tunnels. Strewth, these narrow underground passages will give you a whole new appreciation for what the Vietnamese endured during the war!
The network stretches over 250km and served as hiding spots, communication and supply routes, hospitals, and living quarters for Vietnamese fighters. Tracy still laughs about my first visit when I got stuck trying to squeeze my Aussie frame through one of the tunnel sections (they’ve been widened for tourists, but they’re still bloody tight!).
What impresses me most is the resourcefulness on display. You’ll see how simple bamboo was fashioned into deadly booby traps and how air shafts were disguised as termite mounds. The guides often demonstrate how the tunnel entrances were camouflaged – disappearing into the ground right before your eyes.
If you’re game, you can fire M16s or AK47s at the shooting range (for an extra fee). It’s touristy, sure, but there’s something sobering about handling the very weapons that caused so much destruction.
[IMAGE:cu-chi-tunnels]
Khe Sanh Combat Base: The Legendary Battlefield
For history buffs like myself, Khe Sanh is the holy grail of Vietnam War sites. Located near the former DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) in central Vietnam, this former US Marine base was the site of a brutal 77-day siege in 1968.
Tracy and I made the journey here about five years ago, and I still get goosebumps thinking about standing on that red soil where so many young men fought and died. The small museum houses weapons, photos, and personal items, while outside you can see the remnants of bunkers and artillery pieces.
What struck me was how peaceful it all feels now. The surrounding mountains are stunning, and it’s hard to reconcile the tranquil scene before you with the hell that unfolded here. If you make the trip, I recommend hiring a knowledgeable guide who can bring the battle to life with their stories.
[IMAGE:khe-sanh-base]
Hue’s Imperial City: Scars of the Tet Offensive
While not strictly a war museum, Hue’s Imperial City bears the deep scars of one of the war’s most significant battles. During the 1968 Tet Offensive, this former imperial capital became a battleground, with heavy fighting destroying much of the historic citadel.
Walking through the partially restored palace complex, Tracy always points out the bullet holes still visible in some of the structures. It’s a poignant reminder of how cultural treasures often become casualties of conflict.
The city of Hue itself is worth a few days’ exploration, with war memorials scattered throughout. Don’t miss the Truong Son National Cemetery, the final resting place for thousands of Vietnamese soldiers, located about 30km from the city center.
[IMAGE:hue-citadel]
Hanoi Hilton (Hoa Lo Prison): Where POWs Endured
Despite its cheeky nickname, there was nothing luxurious about the infamous Hoa Lo Prison in Hanoi, known to American POWs as the “Hanoi Hilton.” Only a portion of the original prison remains today, as modern developments have encroached on the site.
Most Aussies know this as the place where John McCain and other American pilots were held captive. The exhibits are fascinating, though as Tracy often points out to our visiting friends, they paint a rather sanitized version of prisoner treatment.
The prison was actually built by the French colonial government to house Vietnamese political prisoners, and much of the museum focuses on this earlier period. The sections dedicated to American POWs show them playing sports, celebrating Christmas, and receiving medical care – a far cry from the harsh accounts of former inmates.
[IMAGE:hoa-lo-prison]
Practical Tips for War History Explorers
- Wear comfortable shoes and modest clothing (shoulders and knees covered) as a sign of respect at memorial sites.
- Bring water, sunscreen, and an umbrella – many sites have limited shade.
- Consider hiring a guide, especially at Cu Chi and Khe Sanh – their insights transform the experience.
- Give yourself emotional space after visiting these sites. Tracy and I usually plan something uplifting afterward, like a nice meal or spa treatment.
- Be mindful that Vietnamese people have moved forward while honoring their past – avoid political debates or insensitive questions.
Final Thoughts
Exploring Vietnam’s war history isn’t always easy, but it’s incredibly rewarding. After our two decades here, Tracy and I still find new perspectives and stories with each visit to these museums and memorials. They’ve helped us understand our Vietnamese friends better and appreciate the remarkable recovery this nation has made.
For Australian boomers who grew up in the shadow of this conflict, these sites offer a chance for reflection and understanding. Whether you served, protested, or watched from afar, seeing these places firsthand adds invaluable context to an era that shaped both Vietnam and Australia.
As always, if you see an Aussie bloke with a big smile and an even bigger hat at one of these sites, come say g’day – it might just be me!
Until next time,
Aussie Mates