By aussiematesvietnam 
Unearthing the Ancient Splendours of Thang Long
G’day fellow travellers! Aussie Mates here, coming to you from the bustling streets of Hanoi where Tracy and I have been calling home for nearly two decades. If there’s one thing we’ve learned in our 20 years exploring Vietnam, it’s that this country never stops surprising you with its rich historical treasures.
Today I’m taking you on a journey through one of Vietnam’s most significant historical sites – the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long. This UNESCO World Heritage gem sits smack bang in the heart of Hanoi, yet many visitors walk right past without realising the centuries of dramatic history beneath their feet.
[IMAGE:thang-long-citadel-entrance]
Pour yourself a cold one and settle in as we explore this ancient wonder that’s survived invasions, wars, and the relentless march of time. Trust me, mates – this isn’t just another temple tour. This is where Vietnamese kings ruled for over a millennium!
A Brief History: From Rice Paddy to Royal Powerhouse
Let me wind the clock back to 1010 CE when Emperor Ly Thai To had a vision of a dragon ascending. Taking this as a divine sign, he moved the capital from Hoa Lu to this site, naming it Thang Long or “Ascending Dragon.” Pretty impressive start to a real estate development, eh?
The citadel served as Vietnam’s political centre for 13 consecutive centuries under the Ly, Tran, Le, and finally the Nguyen dynasties. Just imagine – while Europeans were still figuring out the Crusades, Vietnamese emperors were already running a sophisticated imperial complex right here.
Tracy and I first visited back in 2005, when archaeological excavations were still relatively fresh. The excitement among the locals was palpable – each dig revealing new layers of their nation’s storied past.
[IMAGE:ancient-citadel-ruins]
Architectural Marvel: Where East Meets East
Unlike many Asian heritage sites that showcase heavy Chinese influence, the Imperial Citadel offers something uniquely Vietnamese. You’ll notice architectural elements from China, sure, but they’ve been adapted with distinctive local flair – a testament to Vietnam’s independent spirit even during times of occupation.
The site spans a massive area with several key sections:
- The Flag Tower – a 33-metre tall structure that has become an iconic symbol of Hanoi
- The Doan Mon Gate – the main southern entrance to the royal palace
- The Kinh Thien Palace – once the centre of royal power where emperors conducted ceremonies
- The Archaeological Site – where 18 layers of relics reveal the continuous development from the 7th century onwards
- The D67 Building and Bunker – used by the Vietnamese military during the American War
One sunny afternoon, Tracy and I spent nearly four hours wandering through the complex, and I reckon we still only scratched the surface. Take your time here, mates – the details are where the magic happens.
[IMAGE:imperial-architecture-details]
Archaeological Wonderland: Digging Through Dynasties
The archaeological area is where you’ll really appreciate the site’s UNESCO status. Glass walkways allow you to peer down into excavated sections where archaeologists have uncovered foundations and artifacts from different periods stacked atop one another like a historical lasagne.
During one visit, we lucked out and met an English-speaking guide who explained how they could identify different dynasties by the unique brickwork patterns. Fascinating stuff for history buffs like us!
Pro tip: The lighting in this section is designed to highlight the different historical layers, so visit on a weekday morning when it’s less crowded and you can take your time examining the details.
Vietnam’s Military History: From Ancient Battles to Modern Warfare
What makes the Imperial Citadel truly unique is its continuous role in Vietnamese military history right up to the 20th century. The D67 Building served as the headquarters for the Vietnamese People’s Army during the American War (or Vietnam War as we Aussies know it).
Walking through the preserved military bunkers with their old telecommunications equipment and strategy maps gives you goosebumps. This isn’t ancient history – it’s within living memory for many of us boomers.
Tracy always gets a bit emotional in this section, remembering how these events dominated our telly screens during our younger years. Now here we are, standing in the very rooms where North Vietnamese generals planned their operations.
[IMAGE:military-bunker-exhibits]
Practical Tips for Fellow Aussie Travellers
After multiple visits over the years, we’ve picked up a few handy tips to make your experience smoother:
- Opening hours: 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, closed on Mondays
- Entrance fee: Around 30,000 VND (about $2 AUD) – an absolute bargain!
- Best time to visit: Early morning before the tour groups arrive or late afternoon when the lighting is magic for photos
- Dress code: Casual is fine, but remember it’s a respected historical site, so keep it decent, mates
- Duration: Allow at least 2-3 hours to do it justice
Don’t make the rookie mistake we did on our first visit by wearing thongs (or flip-flops for you non-Aussies). The grounds are extensive, and you’ll be doing plenty of walking on uneven surfaces.
Beyond the Citadel: Making a Day of It
The beauty of the Imperial Citadel’s location is its proximity to other Hanoi highlights. After exploring the complex, Tracy and I often stroll over to the nearby West Lake for a cold Bia Hoi (fresh beer) and some people-watching.
The Vietnam Military History Museum is just across the road if you’re keen to delve deeper into the country’s defensive past. And the Old Quarter is about a 15-minute walk away – perfect for dinner after your historical adventure.
[IMAGE:hanoi-west-lake-view]
Final Thoughts: A Must-Visit for History Lovers
The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long isn’t just another tourist tick-box – it’s a living, breathing chronicle of Vietnamese resilience and cultural continuity. From ancient ceremonies to modern warfare, these grounds have witnessed it all.
As Tracy always says when we bring visiting friends here, “This is where you start to understand Vietnam beyond the postcard images.” And after nearly 20 years living in this fascinating country, I couldn’t agree more.
So when you’re planning your Vietnam adventure, give the Imperial Citadel the time it deserves. Wander slowly, imagine the royal processions that once moved through these gates, and appreciate how this site encapsulates Vietnam’s journey from ancient kingdom to modern nation.
Until next time, this is Aussie Mates signing off from Hanoi. Keep those travel dreams alive, and as we say in the land down under – no worries, mate!