By aussiematesvietnam 
Introduction: Meeting the Locals
G’day, fellow travellers! Aussie Mates here, coming to you from the bustling streets of Hanoi where I’ve been lucky enough to call home for nearly two decades now. My wife Tracy and I have been on quite the journey since we packed up our life in Melbourne and headed for Southeast Asia all those years ago. What was meant to be a six-month adventure turned into a permanent sea change that we’ve never regretted.
One of the questions I get asked most often by my Aussie mates back home is, “What’s Vietnam really like beyond the tourist traps?” It’s a fair dinkum question, and one that I’m always keen to answer. Because after 20 years here, I’ve learned that the real Vietnam – the authentic experiences, the breathtaking sights, and the heart-warming encounters – often lies just beyond the pages of your standard travel guide.
So today, I thought I’d share something special with you. I recently sat down with my good friend Nguyen Van Minh (or just Minh to his mates), a born-and-bred Hanoi local who knows this country better than most tour guides. Over a couple of cold Bia Hoi (fresh local beers) at a tiny street-side stall, we chatted about the hidden gems that most tourists never see. This blog post is the result of that yarn – a local’s guide to the real Vietnam.
[IMAGE:street-beer-hanoi]
Meet Minh: Your Virtual Vietnamese Guide
Minh isn’t your typical tour guide. In fact, he’s not a guide at all – he’s a high school history teacher who’s passionate about his country’s past and present. At 58, he’s lived through more changes in Vietnam than most of us could imagine. With salt-and-pepper hair and laugh lines that crinkle when he smiles, Minh has the kind of face that tells stories before he even opens his mouth.
“Many tourists, they come to Vietnam and they see only what they expect to see,” Minh tells me as we sit on tiny plastic stools that would make any Aussie bloke’s knees creak in protest. “They want the Vietnam War sites, they want Ha Long Bay, they want the Cu Chi tunnels. All good things to see, but not the full picture.”
Tracy joins us halfway through our chat, bringing some bánh mì from a vendor down the street that she swears makes the best in Hanoi. As we tear into the crusty baguettes stuffed with pork, pâté and fresh herbs, Minh begins to reveal his insider knowledge of Vietnam’s hidden treasures.
Beyond the Tourist Trail: Vietnam’s Best-Kept Secrets
The Forgotten Coastal Gems
“Everyone knows Nha Trang and Da Nang,” Minh says with a slight shake of his head. “Beautiful places, but now very… how do you say it? Commercial.”
Instead, Minh recommends heading to Quy Nhon, a coastal city in Central Vietnam that remains largely untouched by mass tourism. “The beaches are just as beautiful as Nha Trang, but you might be the only westerner there,” he says with a wink.
Tracy and I visited Quy Nhon last year and can confirm Minh’s recommendation is spot on. The city boasts pristine beaches with crystal clear waters, fresh seafood that will make your taste buds dance, and accommodation that costs about a third of what you’d pay in the more touristy spots.
“Don’t miss Ky Co Beach,” Minh advises. “It’s like a natural swimming pool formed by rocks, with water so clear you can see your toes. Go early in the morning before the local tourists arrive.”
[IMAGE:quy-nhon-beach]
The Mountain Retreats You’ve Never Heard Of
Sa Pa and Da Lat might be the mountain retreats that feature in most travel itineraries, but Minh suggests looking elsewhere for a more authentic experience.
“Ha Giang province in the far north is what Sa Pa was twenty years ago,” he tells us. “The motorcycle loop through the karst mountains is maybe the most beautiful road in all of Vietnam. You see real minority villages, not the ones set up for tourists.”
I can vouch for Ha Giang’s magnificence. A few years back, Tracy and I spent a week motorcycling through the region, staying in homestays along the way. The limestone formations jutting dramatically from the earth create scenery that belongs on a movie set, not real life. And the local H’mong and Dao people welcomed us into their homes with genuine warmth that you just can’t fake for tourists.
“If you go, you must try the thắng cố,” Minh says with a mischievous grin. “It’s a traditional H’mong horse meat stew. Very… special.”
I shoot Tracy a knowing look – we’d both tried thắng cố on our trip. Let’s just say it’s an acquired taste that this Aussie bloke hasn’t quite acquired yet!
The Food Secrets That Will Change Your Life
Vietnamese cuisine has gained worldwide recognition, with phở and bánh mì becoming international sensations. But according to Minh, most visitors barely scratch the surface of Vietnam’s culinary offerings.
“In the Central Highlands, in Kon Tum province, there is a dish called ‘cơm lam’,” Minh explains. “It’s sticky rice cooked inside bamboo tubes over fire. You eat it with grilled chicken and wild vegetables. Simple but so delicious.”
Tracy chimes in, “We tried that when we visited Kon Tum last year! The bamboo gives the rice this amazing smoky flavor that you just can’t replicate any other way.”
Minh nods approvingly. “You see? This is what I mean. Even people who live in Vietnam for many years like you two, there are still foods to discover.”
He goes on to recommend bún bò Huế from Central Vietnam (“Much better than phở, but don’t tell the Hanoi people I said this!”), cá kho tộ (caramelized fish in a clay pot) from the Mekong Delta, and bánh xèo (crispy savory pancakes) from the South.
[IMAGE:vietnamese-cuisine]
Local Wisdom: Minh’s Tips for Authentic Travel
Timing Is Everything
“Most tourists come to Vietnam in December or January because they think the weather is best,” Minh says. “But they are wrong! This is when Hanoi is cold and grey, and the central region gets rain.”
Instead, Minh suggests visiting northern Vietnam in October or April, when the weather is mild and the rice fields are either golden before harvest or a vibrant green after planting.
“For central Vietnam – Hue, Hoi An, Da Nang – February to May is good. For Saigon and the south, December to March is dry season. But remember, Vietnam is 1,600 kilometers from north to south. The weather is always good somewhere!”
As a long-term resident, I’ve found Minh’s weather wisdom to be spot on. Tracy and I often plan our internal travels based on this seasonal calendar, and it’s rarely steered us wrong.
Transportation Tricks
“Many tourists make mistake of flying everywhere,” Minh says. “Yes, Vietnam is long country, but sleeper trains are the secret way to travel.”
He’s not wrong. While flying might save you time, you’ll miss out on the spectacular scenery that unfolds from a train window. The Reunification Express runs the length of the country from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, and while the entire journey would take around 30 hours, breaking it into segments makes for an unforgettable journey.
“The most beautiful section is from Hue to Da Nang,” Minh advises. “The train goes along the coast and through the Hai Van Pass. It’s only about three hours but maybe the most scenic train journey in all of Southeast Asia.”
Tracy and I make this journey at least once a year, and we still press our faces to the windows like excited kids every time the train hugs the coastline with the South China Sea (or East Sea, as the Vietnamese call it) stretching out to the horizon.
[IMAGE:train-hai-van-pass]
Navigating Cultural Differences
“Vietnamese people are very friendly, but also very proud,” Minh explains. “If you show respect for our culture, we will open our homes and hearts to you.”
This is perhaps the most valuable advice for any traveller to Vietnam. Simple gestures like learning a few words of Vietnamese, accepting food or drink when offered, and removing your shoes before entering someone’s home can open doors to experiences that money can’t buy.
“Also, don’t be afraid of street food,” Minh adds, gesturing to our now-empty bánh mì wrappers. “If you see many locals eating somewhere, it is safe and delicious. The places with no Vietnamese customers but many tourists? Maybe not so good.”
After nearly two decades here, I’ve found this to be the golden rule of dining in Vietnam. Some of Tracy’s and my most memorable meals have been at humble street-side stalls with no English menu, where we’ve pointed and smiled our way to culinary bliss.
Conclusion: The Real Vietnam
As our beers empty and the afternoon light softens, Minh leans back on his tiny stool and offers one final piece of wisdom.
“The real Vietnam is not in the tourist sites,” he says thoughtfully. “It’s in the moments between. It’s in the motorcycle ride through the countryside, the conversation with an old man at a tea stall, the family who invites you to join their meal when you look lost.”
Looking back on our nearly 20 years here, Tracy and I couldn’t agree more. The spectacular landscapes and historical sites are certainly worth seeing, but it’s the countless small interactions and unexpected discoveries that have made our time in Vietnam so rich and rewarding.
So if you’re planning a trip to this fascinating country, by all means, see Ha Long Bay and Hoi An and the Cu Chi tunnels. But don’t forget to leave room in your itinerary for wandering, for getting slightly lost, for following the recommendation of a local you meet along the way.
Because as my mate Minh would say, that’s where the real treasure lies.
Until next time, this is Aussie Mates signing off from Hanoi. If you’ve got questions about Vietnam or want to share your own hidden gems, drop a comment below or shoot me an email. I’m always up for a good yarn about this country I’ve come to call home.
[IMAGE:sunset-hanoi]