Long Bien Bridge: Engineering Marvel Over the Red River
G’day, fellow adventurers! Aussie Mates here, coming at you from the bustling streets of Hanoi. After nearly two decades of calling Vietnam home, Tracy and I have developed quite the soft spot for this country’s historical landmarks. And fair dinkum, there’s one structure that stands head and shoulders above the rest – the iconic Long Bien Bridge.
This old girl has weathered wars, witnessed history, and continues to serve as a vital artery connecting the heart of Hanoi. So grab a cuppa, settle in, and let me share with you the fascinating tale of this engineering marvel that spans the mighty Red River.
[IMAGE:long-bien-bridge-panorama]
A Bit of History: The Bridge That France Built
Cast your mind back to the early 1900s. Vietnam (or French Indochina as it was known then) was under colonial rule, and the French had grand plans for their territory. In 1899, they commissioned what was then called the Paul Doumer Bridge, named after the Governor-General of French Indochina who later became the President of France.
The bridge was designed by the famous French architect Gustave Eiffel – yep, the same bloke who gave Paris its iconic tower! Construction began in 1898 and was completed in 1902. At the time, this 2.4-kilometer steel behemoth was one of the longest bridges in Asia and considered a remarkable feat of engineering.
After Vietnam gained independence, the structure was renamed Long Bien Bridge, taking its name from the district it connects to the city center. For the locals, it became more than just a bridge – it transformed into a symbol of resilience and national identity.
[IMAGE:eiffel-design-blueprint]
Surviving the American War
If this bridge could talk, crikey, the stories it would tell! During what Aussies call the Vietnam War (known locally as the American War), Long Bien Bridge was a critical supply route and consequently became a target for American bombing raids.
Between 1967 and 1972, the bridge suffered repeated attacks, sustaining significant damage. Tracy and I once chatted with an elderly local who recalled how the bridge was bombed several times but was quickly repaired by Vietnamese workers, often working through the night. The determination to keep this vital link functioning became a symbol of North Vietnamese resistance.
Today, you can still see evidence of these attacks. Some sections of the bridge have been rebuilt with different materials and designs, creating a patchwork appearance that serves as a silent testament to its tumultuous history.
[IMAGE:bomb-damage-repairs]
The Bridge Today: A Living Museum
While modern Hanoi now boasts several newer bridges crossing the Red River, Long Bien remains special. These days, it’s reserved mainly for motorbikes, pedestrians, and the train that still rumbles across its central section.
Walking across Long Bien Bridge is an experience not to be missed. Tracy and I make it a point to take our visiting Aussie mates here whenever they’re in town. The leisurely stroll takes about 30 minutes and offers spectacular views of the Red River, especially at sunrise or sunset.
As you walk, you’ll notice the narrow pedestrian pathways on either side, separated from the railway track that runs down the middle. The steel latticework, though weathered and rusted in places, showcases the brilliant engineering that has allowed this structure to remain standing for over a century.
[IMAGE:pedestrians-crossing]
The Communities Around Long Bien
One of the most fascinating aspects of the bridge is how it has shaped the communities around it. Beneath its massive spans, you’ll find floating villages and small farms on the islets that form in the middle of the Red River during the dry season.
These temporary communities farm the fertile silt left behind by the receding waters, growing vegetables that then make their way to Hanoi’s markets. It’s a brilliant example of Vietnamese resourcefulness that has always impressed me during our time here.
On weekends, the area around the bridge transforms into an impromptu market, with vendors selling everything from fresh produce to clothing. It’s become a popular spot for young Hanoians to hang out, taking selfies against the backdrop of this historical landmark.
[IMAGE:river-islet-farming]
Photography Paradise
For you photography buffs (and I know there are plenty among my fellow Boomers), Long Bien Bridge offers some ripper photo opportunities. The contrasting textures of aged steel against Hanoi’s increasingly modern skyline make for stunning shots.
Tracy’s become quite the shutterbug over our years in Vietnam, and some of her best work features this old bridge. My tip: visit during the golden hour – that magical time just after sunrise or before sunset when the light bathes everything in a warm glow. The bridge takes on an almost ethereal quality as the sun’s rays filter through its metalwork.
Pro tip: head to the nearby Long Bien train station about 30 minutes before a scheduled crossing to capture the train as it rumbles across the bridge. It’s a magnificent sight and worth the wait.
[IMAGE:sunset-bridge-silhouette]
How to Get There and What to Expect
Getting to Long Bien Bridge is a piece of cake. It’s located at the edge of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and any taxi driver will know it. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also reach it using Grab (Southeast Asia’s version of Uber) or by local bus.
The bridge entrance is near Phung Hung Street, and you’ll need to climb a set of stairs to access the pedestrian walkway. Be mindful that the surface can be a bit uneven, so wear comfortable shoes. Also, keep in mind that there’s no shade on the bridge, so slap on sunscreen and a hat if you’re visiting during the day – take it from a sun-smart Aussie, that Vietnamese sun can be brutal!
Some visitors are surprised by how narrow the pedestrian paths are – when a motorbike passes, you’ll need to press yourself against the railings. It’s all part of the adventure though, and adds to the authentic experience.
[IMAGE:motorbike-traffic]
A Personal Connection
Tracy and I have developed quite a connection with this old bridge over our years in Vietnam. We’ve walked across it countless times, in all seasons and weather conditions. During Tet (Vietnamese New Year), we join the locals in watching fireworks from its spans. During the rainy season, we marvel at the swollen, coffee-colored waters of the Red River rushing beneath.
One of our favorite traditions is to celebrate our anniversary with a sunset stroll across Long Bien. There’s something romantic about standing midway across, watching the sun dip below Hanoi’s horizon, reflecting on another year in this incredible country we’ve come to call home.
Final Thoughts
Long Bien Bridge might not have the gleaming aesthetic of Sydney Harbour Bridge back home, but what it lacks in glamour, it more than makes up for in character and historical significance. It stands as a testament to human engineering, resilience, and adaptation.
For Aussie travellers looking to understand Vietnam beyond the usual tourist spots, spending an hour exploring this bridge offers insights into the country’s colonial past, its wartime struggles, and its contemporary evolution.
So when you’re planning your Hanoi itinerary, pencil in some time for this grand old dame of the Red River. She’s got stories to tell for those willing to listen.
Until next time, this is Aussie Mates signing off from Hanoi. Keep exploring, mates!