By aussiematesvietnam Perfume Pagoda: A Spiritual Journey Through Vietnam’s Breathtaking Landscapes
G’day fellow adventurers! Aussie Mates here, coming to you from my adopted home of nearly two decades – the incredible Vietnam. Tracy and I recently made the journey to one of Vietnam’s most sacred Buddhist sites, and crikey, was it worth every step of the way! The Perfume Pagoda, locally known as Chua Huong, sits about 60km southwest of Hanoi and offers a ripper of an experience that combines spiritual significance with jaw-dropping natural beauty.
If you’re planning to visit Vietnam and looking for something beyond the usual tourist haunts, this ancient pilgrimage site should be high on your list. So grab a cuppa, and let me walk you through this unforgettable experience that’s been drawing pilgrims for centuries.
What Makes the Perfume Pagoda Special?
The Perfume Pagoda isn’t just a single temple – it’s actually a vast complex of Buddhist temples and shrines built into the limestone Huong Tich mountains. The name “Perfume” comes from the aromatic flowers that bloom throughout the area in spring, filling the air with their sweet scent. How poetic is that?
This site dates back to the 15th century, though local legends suggest people have been coming here to worship since the 15th century BC. That’s some serious history, mates! Each year, thousands of Vietnamese make the pilgrimage here, especially during the Huong Pagoda Festival which runs from the 6th day of the first lunar month until the end of March.
Tracy and I visited in February, which meant we got to witness some of the festival atmosphere – a bit crowded but absolutely fascinating to see the devoted pilgrims in action. If you’re not keen on crowds, consider visiting outside the festival period when things are a bit more peaceful.
Getting There: Half the Adventure
Part of what makes the Perfume Pagoda experience so special is the journey itself. From Hanoi, it’s about a 2-hour drive to Ben Duc village, and from there, you board a rowboat for a stunning 1-hour journey along the Yen Stream.
Let me tell you, the boat ride is a ripper! Local women (often older ladies with impressive arm strength) row these boats using their feet and hands. Tracy couldn’t stop taking photos of the limestone karsts reflecting in the emerald water. The scenery is dead-set gorgeous – mist-shrouded mountains, lush greenery, and the gentle sound of oars dipping into water.
Hot tip: While there are organized tours from Hanoi, we hired a private driver and guide for about $60 USD, which gave us more flexibility with timing. Worth every dong, as they say!
The Climb: Not for the Faint-Hearted
After disembarking from your boat, prepare for some serious leg work. The main pagoda, Huong Tich Cave (or Inner Temple), requires climbing about 4km of stone steps up the mountain. I won’t sugar-coat it – it’s a challenging trek, especially for us in the 50+ club!
Tracy and I took frequent breaks, which gave us time to chat with local pilgrims and soak in the stunning views. There are plenty of small shrines and temples along the way where you can catch your breath. The pathway is lined with vendors selling incense, souvenirs, and refreshments – we became particularly fond of the sugarcane juice stops!
For those who aren’t up for the climb, there’s now a cable car option. But between you and me, the hike is part of the spiritual experience. As they say, nothing worth having comes easy!
- Wear comfortable walking shoes with good grip
- Bring plenty of water
- Pack some snacks
- Don’t forget a hat and sunscreen
- Consider a walking stick – you can buy one there
Huong Tich Cave: The Main Event
After huffing and puffing our way up the mountain (no shame in admitting I was more “puff” than “huff” by the top), we reached the main attraction – Huong Tich Cave. Strewth, what a sight! The entrance to the cave is carved with the words “Nam thien de nhat dong” in ancient Chinese characters, which translates to “the first cave under the southern sky.”
Inside this massive limestone cave is where the magic happens. The natural stalactites and stalagmites have been given names and religious significance. The most famous is the “Milk Finger,” a stone finger dripping water that’s believed to bestow fertility and good fortune. Tracy joined the queue of women touching this formation – “just covering all bases,” she said with a wink.
The cave is dimly lit and filled with the scent of incense. Buddha statues and altars are tucked into various corners where pilgrims leave offerings and pray. Even as non-Buddhists, we found the atmosphere incredibly moving and spiritual.
Other Temples Worth Visiting
While Huong Tich Cave is the main draw, there are several other temples in the complex worth exploring:
Thien Tru Pagoda (Heaven Kitchen Pagoda) – Located at the foot of the mountain, this beautiful temple is where your climbing journey begins. Legend has it that heavenly fairies would descend to prepare food for Buddha here.
Giai Oan Pagoda (Purgatory Pagoda) – This pagoda was built to commemorate the women who drowned themselves in the nearby stream after being wrongly accused of various crimes. Bit grim, but historically significant.
Tuyet Son Pagoda – A smaller temple with fewer visitors but featuring some beautiful sculptures and a peaceful atmosphere.
Tracy and I spent nearly a full day exploring the various temples, taking it at a relaxed pace, and soaking in the atmosphere. If you’re pressed for time, you could do the highlights in about 4-5 hours, but I’d recommend allocating a full day if possible.
Best Time to Visit
The Perfume Pagoda can be visited year-round, but timing matters:
Festival Season (February-March, following Lunar Calendar) – Incredibly vibrant and authentic but extremely crowded. If you’re after cultural immersion, this is your time.
Spring (April-May) – My personal recommendation. The weather is pleasant, flowers are blooming (living up to the “perfume” name), and the crowds have thinned.
Summer (June-August) – Hot and humid with occasional downpours. The lush greenery is stunning, but prepare to sweat buckets on that climb!
Autumn/Winter (September-January) – Cooler temperatures make the climb more comfortable, but the stream can be a bit misty and chilly.
Tips from an Aussie Who’s Been There
After nearly 20 years in Vietnam, Tracy and I have learned a thing or two about approaching these cultural sites:
Dress Respectfully – It’s a religious site, so keep shoulders and knees covered. I got by with lightweight cargo pants and a short-sleeved button-up shirt.
Haggle (Nicely) – Prices for boat rides, souvenirs, and refreshments are often inflated for tourists. A friendly negotiation is expected, but remember – saving a dollar means much more to them than to us.
Try the Local