By aussiematesvietnam 
Discovering Vietnam’s Ancient Seat of Learning
G’day, fellow travellers! Aussie Mates here with Tracy by my side. After nearly two decades of calling Vietnam home, we’ve explored just about every nook and cranny of this incredible country. Today, I want to share with you one of Hanoi’s true treasures that often gets overlooked on the typical tourist trail: the Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu), Vietnam’s first national university.
On a sweltering afternoon last month, Tracy and I revisited this peaceful sanctuary in the heart of Hanoi’s chaos. As we strolled through its ancient courtyards, I was reminded why this place has captivated me since my first visit nearly 20 years ago. There’s something special about standing in a place where scholars have studied since 1076 – that’s right, almost a full millennium of learning!
[IMAGE:temple-exterior]
A Brief History: Not Just Another Temple
Don’t let the name fool you – the Temple of Literature isn’t just a religious site. Established in 1070 under Emperor Lý Thánh Tông, it was initially dedicated to Confucius, scholars, and sages. But what makes this place truly remarkable is that in 1076, it became Vietnam’s first national university, known as Quốc Tử Giám.
For nearly 700 years, this was where Vietnam’s mandarin class – the elite scholars who would serve as the country’s civil servants and administrators – received their education. Think of it as Vietnam’s Oxford or Cambridge, but starting way back in the 11th century!
The university operated until 1779, educating generations of Vietnam’s brightest minds. During its heyday, only the most dedicated students made it through the rigorous examination system – sometimes with an acceptance rate as low as 1%! Talk about competitive entry requirements that make modern university admissions look like a walk in the park.
[IMAGE:ancient-courtyard]
Exploring the Five Courtyards
The Temple of Literature is designed as a sequence of five courtyards, each with its own significance. Tracy and I always recommend visitors take their time moving through them in order, just as scholars would have centuries ago.
The first courtyard welcomes you with beautiful gardens and ancient trees. After the bustle of Hanoi’s streets, this peaceful entry sets the tone for your visit. The second courtyard features the Khue Van Cac (Constellation of Literature pavilion), which has become an iconic symbol of Hanoi – you’ll even spot it on the 100,000 Vietnamese dong note!
The third courtyard is where things get really interesting. Here you’ll find a large pond called the “Well of Heavenly Clarity” and 82 stone stelae mounted on tortoise backs. Each of these stone tablets records the names, birthplaces, and achievements of 1,307 doctoral graduates from the royal examinations held between 1442 and 1779.
I still remember Tracy’s amazement when our guide first explained that students would rub the heads of these stone tortoises for good luck before their exams – a tradition that continues with modern Vietnamese students today. The tortoise heads are noticeably shinier than the rest of the sculptures from centuries of hopeful touches!
[IMAGE:stone-stelae]
The Fourth and Fifth Courtyards: The Heart of Learning
The fourth courtyard was where the actual teaching took place. Here stood the university’s main building, with altars dedicated to Confucius and his disciples. The final courtyard housed the Imperial Academy, where Vietnam’s crown princes received their education.
During our last visit, an elderly guide told us how students would spend years memorizing the Confucian classics, perfecting their calligraphy, and preparing for the grueling imperial examinations that could change their family’s fortunes for generations. The pressure these young blokes were under makes our HSC exams look like a Sunday quiz at the local pub!
What strikes me every time I visit is how the Vietnamese have always valued education as a path to success. This cultural emphasis on learning hasn’t diminished over the centuries – just look at how Vietnamese students consistently rank among the world’s highest achievers in international assessments today.
[IMAGE:confucian-altar]
Practical Tips for Your Visit
If you’re planning to visit (and you absolutely should), here are a few insider tips from Tracy and me:
- Come early in the morning (around 8 AM) or late afternoon to avoid both the heat and the tour groups.
- Entrance fee is about 30,000 VND (roughly $2 AUD) – absolute bargain for what you’re getting.
- Allow at least 1-2 hours to properly explore the complex.
- Consider hiring a local guide – they bring the history to life with stories you won’t find in guidebooks.
- The Temple is located at 58 Quoc Tu Giam Street, about a 15-minute walk west of Hoan Kiem Lake.
- Dress respectfully – while not as strict as active religious sites, it’s still considered a place of reverence.
More Than Just Ancient History
What I find particularly fascinating about the Temple of Literature is how it continues to play a role in contemporary Vietnamese culture. During the Vietnamese New Year (Tết), calligraphers set up stalls in the temple grounds to write good luck messages for visitors. Local students still visit before their important exams, and it’s a popular backdrop for graduation photos.
Tracy and I witnessed a graduation ceremony during one visit, with proud parents taking photos of their children in caps and gowns against the backdrop of the ancient university – a powerful symbol of educational continuity across the centuries.
The Temple of Literature stands as a testament to Vietnam’s resilience. Despite wars, colonization, and revolutionary change, the Vietnamese commitment to learning has remained constant. As an Aussie who’s called Vietnam home for two decades, I’ve come to deeply appreciate this aspect of the culture.
[IMAGE:graduation-ceremony]
Final Thoughts: Why It’s Worth Your Time
In a city filled with attractions vying for your attention, the Temple of Literature offers something different – a glimpse into the intellectual foundations of Vietnamese society. It’s not as flashy as some tourist spots, but it has a depth and significance that stays with you long after you’ve left.
Tracy always says it’s the perfect antidote to the sensory overload that Hanoi can sometimes be. Among the ancient trees and scholarly traditions, you’ll find a peaceful space for reflection – something all us Boomers can appreciate after navigating Vietnam’s chaotic traffic!
So when you’re planning your Hanoi itinerary, carve out a few hours for this extraordinary place. Stand where scholars stood a thousand years ago, run your fingers over the stone stelae (though maybe not the tortoise heads – they’ve had enough rubbing!), and appreciate how a culture’s reverence for education shaped a nation.
Until next time, this is Aussie Mates signing off from Hanoi. If you’ve visited the Temple of Literature or have questions about it, drop a comment below – Tracy and I love hearing from fellow travelers!