By aussiematesvietnam Train Street Hanoi: A Unique Cultural Experience
G’day, fellow travellers! Aussie Mates here with my better half, Tracy. After nearly two decades of calling Vietnam our home, we’ve seen this remarkable country transform before our eyes. Yet some experiences remain timelessly authentic – and Hanoi’s famous Train Street is definitely one of them. This narrow residential lane where a functioning railway runs literally metres from people’s front doors has become one of Hanoi’s most fascinating attractions. So grab a cold one and let me share what you need to know about this uniquely Vietnamese phenomenon.
[IMAGE:train-street-overview]
What Exactly Is Hanoi’s Train Street?
Tucked away in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, Train Street (or “Ngõ Đường Tàu” to the locals) is exactly what it sounds like – a functioning railway line squeezed between rows of houses and cafés. The actual street name is Ngõ 224 Lê Duẩn, though most know it simply as Train Street. The railway was built during French colonial times, and over the decades, local life has adapted around it in the most extraordinary way.
When Tracy and I first stumbled upon this place back in the early 2000s, it was just a residential area where trains happened to pass through. Now it’s become one of Hanoi’s most photographed spots, and fair dinkum, it’s not hard to see why. The tight squeeze between the train and the buildings creates a visual that’s uniquely Vietnamese – a perfect illustration of how life here adapts to even the most unusual circumstances.
[IMAGE:narrow-railway-houses]
The Train Schedule – Timing Your Visit
If you’re keen to see the trains actually rumbling through (and trust me, that’s the whole point), you’ll need to time your visit right. The schedule can change, but generally, trains pass through several times daily, with the most popular viewing times being around 3:00 PM and 7:00 PM. During our last visit, Tracy and I checked with locals who confirmed these times, but it’s always good to double-check when you’re in Hanoi as timetables can shift.
Word to the wise: arrive at least 30 minutes before the train is due. The street gets absolutely chockers with tourists, especially during peak season. Finding a good viewing spot can be a bit of a challenge if you rock up last minute.
The Local Experience – Coffee with a Side of Adrenaline
What makes Train Street truly special isn’t just the trains – it’s the vibrant community that has flourished along its edges. When there’s no train, the tracks become an extension of people’s homes. You’ll see locals chatting, children playing, and street vendors selling everything from fresh fruit to hot bánh mì sandwiches.
In recent years, savvy locals have opened numerous cafés and bars along the tracks. These spots offer the perfect vantage point to watch the trains while enjoying a Vietnamese coffee or local beer. Tracy and I have a favourite little joint called Cafe 95, where the owner Minh always remembers us and saves “our table” when he knows we’re bringing visitors.
When a train approaches, a remarkable choreographed routine unfolds. Café owners hurriedly usher customers inside, pull in tables and chairs, and everyone presses against the buildings. It happens with remarkable efficiency – one minute you’re sipping coffee by the tracks, the next you’re flattened against a wall as several tonnes of metal thunder past just inches away. It’s heart-stopping stuff, particularly the first time!
[IMAGE:cafe-train-street]
The Controversy – Tourism vs. Safety
It’s worth mentioning that Train Street has had a complicated relationship with authorities in recent years. In 2019, following safety concerns, the government attempted to shut down the cafés and restrict tourist access. This came after several near-misses with tourists taking risky photos.
During the pandemic, the street was much quieter, but as Vietnam reopened to tourism, visitors flocked back. There have been periodic crackdowns, with barriers sometimes erected and cafés temporarily closed. But like many things in Vietnam, there’s usually a workaround – the residents depend on tourism income, and the allure of the experience is too strong to disappear completely.
The situation remains fluid, so check recent reports before visiting. When Tracy and I visited in early 2023, everything was operating but with more visible safety measures in place – and fair enough too. No Instagram shot is worth risking your life for.
Photography Tips from an Amateur Shutterbug
Train Street is a photographer’s dream, but getting great shots requires some planning. As someone who’s taken hundreds of photos here (much to Tracy’s amusement – she reckons I could wallpaper our house with Train Street pics), here are my tips:
- The golden hour before sunset creates magical lighting as it hits the narrow alley
- For the classic shot of the train approaching, position yourself at the southern end looking north
- Wide-angle lenses work best to capture both the train and the narrow context
- Consider a slow shutter speed to capture the motion blur of the train (bring a small tripod)
- The moments after the train passes, when life quickly returns to normal, often make for more interesting and authentic shots than the train itself
[IMAGE:train-passing-photography]
How to Find Train Street
There are actually two sections of Train Street that are popular with visitors. The main stretch runs between Lê Duẩn and Khâm Thin streets in the Old Quarter. The second, shorter section is between Trần Phú and Hàng Bông streets.
If you’re using ride-sharing apps like Grab, simply type “Train Street Hanoi” and drivers will know where to take you. If you’re walking, head to the Old Quarter and ask any local – they’ll point you in the right direction. Just be ready for a bit of a maze – Hanoi’s Old Quarter isn’t exactly known for its straightforward street layout!
Beyond the Tracks – Nearby Attractions
Make the most of your trip to this area by exploring some nearby attractions. Within walking distance you’ll find:
- Hoan Kiem Lake – The heart of Hanoi, perfect for a post-Train Street stroll
- The Old Quarter – Get lost in the 36 ancient streets, each traditionally named for the goods sold there
- St. Joseph’s Cathedral – A neo-Gothic church that makes for a striking contrast to Vietnamese architecture
- Dong Xuan Market – For some authentic local shopping
Tracy and I often make a day of it, hitting Train Street for the afternoon train, then wandering through the Old Quarter before settling in for dinner at one of the fantastic street food spots near Hoan Kiem Lake.
Final Thoughts – Is Train Street Worth Your Time?
After nearly 20 years in Vietnam, I’ve become a bit jaded about some tourist attractions, but Train Street continues to fascinate me. It perfectly encapsulates what makes Vietnam special – the remarkable adaptation of everyday life to unusual circumstances, the entrepreneurial spirit of the locals, and the thin line between chaotic and orderly that defines so much of life here.
Yes, it’s become touristy. Yes, it can get crowded. But there’s still something genuinely remarkable about seeing a massive train rumble through what is essentially people’s front yards. Just remember to be respectful – this isn’t just a tourist attraction, it’s people’s homes.
As Tracy always reminds our visitors, “We’re guests in their living room.” So behave accordingly, support the local businesses, and you’ll have a ripper of an experience that you’ll be telling your mates about for years to come.
Until next time, this is Aussie Mates signing off from Hanoi. Got questions about Train Street or other hidden gems in Vietnam? Drop a comment below – Tracy and I always love hearing from fellow Aussies exploring this incredible corner of Southeast Asia!
[IMAGE:aussie-