Vietnamese Museum of Military History: Battles and Bravery

G’day mates! Aussie Mates here with Tracy by my side, ready to take you on a ripper of a journey through one of Vietnam’s most captivating historical sites. After calling Vietnam home for nearly two decades, we’ve explored every nook and cranny of this beautiful country. Today, I’m sharing our experience at the Vietnamese Museum of Military History in Hanoi – a place where the echoes of the past tell remarkable stories of courage, resilience, and national pride.

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A Bit of Background

Located in the Ba Dinh District of Hanoi, the Vietnamese Museum of Military History (or Bảo tàng Lịch sử Quân sự Việt Nam in the local lingo) stands as a testament to Vietnam’s long history of defending its sovereignty. Established in 1959, this museum has become one of the must-visit destinations for history buffs like myself who want to understand the fabric of Vietnamese national identity.

Tracy and I first visited this place back in 2005, just a few years after settling in Vietnam. We’ve returned multiple times since, often bringing our visiting Aussie mates who are keen to gain insights beyond what our history books back home taught us about the conflicts in this region.

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What to Expect When You Visit

Before you head off to the museum, here’s what you should know. The museum is open every day except Mondays and public holidays, from 8:00 AM to 11:30 AM and 1:00 PM to 4:30 PM. The entrance fee is a modest 40,000 VND (roughly $2.50 AUD) – an absolute bargain for what you’ll experience inside.

I recommend setting aside at least 2-3 hours for your visit. Trust me, you’ll want to take your time here. The displays are extensive, and if you’re anything like me, you’ll find yourself reading every information plaque and examining every artifact with fascination.

The Outdoor Exhibition: A Display of Military Might

One of the most impressive aspects of this museum is its outdoor exhibition area. As you enter the grounds, you’ll be greeted by an impressive collection of military hardware that’ll make any history or aviation enthusiast’s jaw drop.

The centerpiece is undoubtedly the wreckage of a B-52 bomber shot down during the Christmas bombings of 1972. Standing beside this massive aircraft, Tracy always remarks how it brings home the reality of war in a way that no textbook ever could.

You’ll also find an impressive array of:

  • Soviet-supplied tanks and artillery pieces
  • MiG fighter jets
  • Anti-aircraft guns
  • Helicopters and transport vehicles

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Inside the Museum: Chronicling Vietnam’s Military History

The indoor exhibition is spread across multiple floors, each dedicated to different periods of Vietnam’s military history. The museum does a fair dinkum job of presenting the Vietnamese perspective on conflicts spanning from ancient times to modern warfare.

The ground floor focuses on Vietnam’s early struggles against Chinese domination (111 BC to the 15th century). The artifacts here, including ancient weapons and battle maps, showcase the ingenuity of early Vietnamese military tactics.

Moving up to the first floor, you’ll find exhibits devoted to the resistance against French colonialism (1858-1954). This section includes powerful photographs, weapons, and personal items belonging to revolutionary leaders. It culminates with the historic victory at Dien Bien Phu, which effectively ended French colonial rule.

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The American War: A Different Perspective

For us Aussies, the section covering what we know as the Vietnam War (called the American War or Resistance War Against America here) is particularly poignant. This extensive exhibition occupies the second floor and presents the conflict from the Vietnamese perspective.

During our visits with friends from back home, this section always sparks the most reflection and discussion. You’ll see captured American weapons, equipment, and aircraft alongside Vietnamese guerrilla warfare tools. There are detailed dioramas of famous battles and compelling photographs documenting the conflict.

One thing that struck me during my first visit was a quote from a Vietnamese veteran: “We weren’t fighting against Americans; we were fighting for our independence.” This perspective really makes you think about how the same events can be viewed so differently depending on which side of history you stand.

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Personal Stories: The Human Side of Conflict

What Tracy and I find most moving about this museum isn’t the hardware or the battle maps – it’s the personal stories that bring humanity to the conflicts. The museum does an excellent job of highlighting individual acts of bravery and sacrifice.

There are displays dedicated to female fighters, young volunteers, and everyday citizens who contributed to the war efforts. Letters, diaries, and personal effects of soldiers create a connection that transcends time and nationality.

During our last visit, I spent nearly half an hour reading translated letters from young Vietnamese soldiers to their families. Crikey, it’s hard not to get emotional when you realize these were just young blokes, not unlike the ones I grew up with in Australia, caught up in extraordinary circumstances.

Tips for Aussie Visitors

If you’re planning to visit (and you absolutely should), here are some tips from Tracy and me to make your experience more meaningful:

  • Consider hiring an English-speaking guide. The contextual information they provide adds depth to the exhibits.
  • Bring water, especially if visiting during summer. Hanoi’s heat can be brutal, and parts of the outdoor exhibition offer limited shade.
  • Wear comfortable shoes – you’ll be doing a fair bit of walking.
  • Be mindful that this is a place of significant national pride for Vietnamese people. Some exhibits present a perspective that might differ from Western narratives, but that’s part of the learning experience.
  • The museum café offers a decent spot for a break if you need to rest your legs.

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Beyond the Museum: Expanding Your Historical Journey

If you’re keen to expand your understanding of Vietnamese military history, there are several related sites within easy reach of the museum. Just across the road is the iconic Flag Tower of Hanoi, a symbol of the city built in the early 19th century.

A short taxi ride away, you’ll find the Hoa Lo Prison (sarcastically dubbed the “Hanoi Hilton” by American POWs), which offers another perspective on the conflicts that shaped modern Vietnam.

Tracy and I often recommend spending a full day exploring these sites together for a comprehensive look at Vietnam’s complex military history.

Final Thoughts

The Vietnamese Museum of Military History isn’t just a collection of war relics; it’s a narrative of a nation’s struggle for independence and self-determination. For us Aussies who grew up with a different perspective on many of these conflicts, it offers an invaluable opportunity to see history through another lens.

After nearly 20 years of calling Vietnam home, Tracy and I continue to learn from and be moved by the stories told within these walls. Whether you’re a history buff, a veteran, or simply curious about Vietnam beyond its beautiful beaches and delicious food, this museum deserves a spot on your itinerary.

As we always say to our mates visiting from Down Under – to truly understand modern Vietnam, you need to understand its past. And there’s no better place to start than here, among the echoes of battles fought and the memorials to bravery displayed.

Until next time, keep exploring and learning!

– Aussie Mates (with Tracy’s seal of approval)

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