By aussiematesvietnam West Lake (Ho Tay): A Tranquil Escape in the City
G’day, fellow travel enthusiasts! Aussie Mates here. After nearly two decades of calling Vietnam home, Tracy and I have explored just about every nook and cranny of Hanoi. But there’s one place we keep coming back to time and again when the hustle and bustle of city life gets a bit much – West Lake, or as the locals call it, Hồ Tây.
This massive freshwater lake in the heart of Hanoi spans roughly 500 hectares, making it the largest lake in the capital. While tourists flock to the more famous Hoan Kiem Lake downtown, West Lake offers a more authentic experience where you can mingle with locals and escape the chaos without ever leaving the city.
[IMAGE:west-lake-panorama]
A Bit of History and Legend
Like many places in Vietnam, West Lake comes with its fair share of fascinating legends. My favorite tells of a golden buffalo that ran wild and created the lake with its hoofprints. Another speaks of a Chinese princess who shed tears that formed the lake after being caught in a love triangle. Whether you believe these tales or not, they add a mystical charm to your lakeside stroll.
Historically speaking, West Lake was once the playground of emperors and aristocrats. During the Ly and Tran dynasties (11th-14th centuries), the shoreline was dotted with imperial pavilions and pleasure gardens. Today, many ancient pagodas and temples remain, standing as silent witnesses to centuries gone by.
Getting Your Bearings
West Lake is bloody enormous – it’ll take you about 15-17 kilometers to walk around the entire thing! Tracy and I learned this the hard way when we first arrived in Hanoi and thought, “Let’s take a quick walk around the lake.” Three hours later, with sore feet and parched throats, we were barely halfway around!
The lake is situated in the northwest part of Hanoi, about 15 minutes by taxi from the Old Quarter. It’s surrounded by some of the city’s most upmarket districts, where you’ll find fancy restaurants, boutique hotels, and the homes of many expats and diplomatic missions.
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The Perfect Morning: Sunrise at West Lake
If you’re an early riser (or still battling jet lag), drag yourself out of bed to catch the sunrise over West Lake. It’s absolutely spectacular and well worth the early wake-up call. Between 5 and 6 AM, you’ll see locals practicing tai chi, jogging, or enjoying their morning exercise by the water.
Tracy and I often grab a coffee from one of the lakeside cafes and watch as the mist gradually lifts off the water’s surface while the city slowly wakes up. There’s something magical about these mornings that reminds us why we fell in love with Vietnam in the first place.
Cultural Gems Around the Lake
West Lake is home to several significant religious and cultural sites that are well worth exploring:
- Tran Quoc Pagoda: The oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi, sitting on a small peninsula on the east side of the lake. Its striking red pagoda is postcard-perfect.
- Quan Thanh Temple: Dating back to the 11th century, this Taoist temple honors the God of the North.
- Kim Lien Pagoda: A beautiful, less-visited Buddhist temple tucked away on the southern shore.
I recommend visiting these sites early in the day to avoid both the crowds and the midday heat. Most open around 8 AM and close at 5 PM, with a lunch break from 11 AM to 1:30 PM (typical Vietnamese style).
[IMAGE:tran-quoc-pagoda]
Food, Glorious Food!
One of the highlights of West Lake is the incredible food scene. The area is famous for its specialty dish – bánh tôm Hồ Tây (West Lake shrimp cakes). These crispy, deep-fried cakes made with freshwater shrimp and sweet potato are absolutely delicious!
Tracy’s all-time favorite spot is Banh Tom Ho Tay Restaurant on the northeastern shore. We’ve been going there for nearly 15 years, and the quality hasn’t dropped a bit. Pair those crunchy shrimp cakes with a cold Hanoi Beer, and you’ve got yourself a perfect lakeside lunch.
For something a bit more upscale, there are dozens of excellent restaurants with stunning lake views. Some of our favorites include:
- Summit Lounge: Perched on the 20th floor of the Pan Pacific Hanoi, offering panoramic views of the lake
- The Hanoi Club: Great Western and Vietnamese options with outdoor seating
- Pepperoni’s: If you’re craving a taste of home, this place does decent pizzas and pasta with a lake view
[IMAGE:banh-tom-ho-tay]
Getting Around the Lake
There are several ways to explore West Lake:
- Cycling: Our personal favorite! Rent a bike for about 100,000 VND (roughly $6 AUD) per day and take your time exploring the shoreline.
- Motorbike: If you’re brave enough to tackle Hanoi traffic, this is a quick way to get around.
- Swan Boats: Yes, they’re touristy, but they’re also good fun! You can rent these paddle boats near Tran Quoc Pagoda.
- Walking: Perfect for exploring specific sections, but don’t attempt the entire perimeter unless you’ve got a full day and good walking shoes!
Tracy and I often break up our lake excursions into sections, focusing on different areas each visit. The northern shore tends to be quieter and more residential, while the eastern side is busier with more tourist facilities.
[IMAGE:swan-boats]
Best Time to Visit
Hanoi’s weather can be a bit temperamental, but the best time to visit West Lake is during spring (February to April) or autumn (September to November) when the temperatures are milder and the humidity less oppressive.
During summer (May to August), the heat can be brutal – we’re talking 35-40°C with humidity that’ll have you drenched in sweat within minutes. If you do visit during summer, plan your lake activities for early morning or evening, and seek shelter during the midday heat.
Winter (December to January) brings cooler temperatures and occasional drizzle, but the misty lake views have their own special charm. Just pack a light jacket as evenings can get quite chilly by Hanoi standards.
Accommodation Options
If you’re thinking of basing yourself near West Lake during your Hanoi stay (which I highly recommend for a more relaxed experience), there are plenty of options:
- InterContinental Hanoi Westlake: Luxury option with stunning overwater pavilions
- Sheraton Hanoi: Another high-end choice with beautiful grounds
- Elegant Suites Westlake: Serviced apartments if you prefer more space
- Plenty of boutique hotels and guesthouses: For more budget-friendly options
Tracy and I often recommend West Lake to our visiting friends and family, especially those who might find the Old Quarter a bit overwhelming. The pace is slower here, the air cleaner, and you’re still just a short taxi ride from all the main attractions.